Hss flash

Skip to main content HSS Flash. In Stock. This rig is money!!! Works flawlessly and is super bright The transmitter works great as well The modelling light has 6 brightness settings. I had a flashpoint rovelight that was nothing but a problem After a refund i purchased this unit Couldn't be happier! Loved this light so much I ordered another Add to cart. I am an amateur so when I bought this light and used it outdoors for the first time, in the direct sunlight, very bright and sunny day, to get some light in my face, because I was wearing a hat.

I said this isn't making a difference to my video and it seemed that way to me until I went home and started to edit and saw the difference. Its like magic the light is on it doesn't hurt your eyes, you don't notice it, but the proof is in the eating of the pudding. As for indoors, it is super bright, completely adjustable, very cool. I love it. Let me preface this review by stating that I'm a hobbyist who is still learning on camera flash.

I didn't currently have a flash unit for my Nikon D, so I wanted to jump in and buy a cheap feature packed flash. I picked this one because it was their newest model and it seemed to do everything I could think of. I have used this strictly as TTL with everything set to auto. Pros: Feature packed. Solidly built flash. Recharges quickly. Receives Firmware Updates.One of the more mysterious flash technologies is called high-speed sync HSSwhich may as well be magic — but this is one trick you can master.

This comes in handy for outdoor portraits, when a shallow depth of field is desired, thus necessitating a fast shutter speed. This demonstration works well because Ortiz focuses not on the usual difference of flash versus no flash, but specifically on HSS flash versus non-HSS flash. The indirect effect of HSS, therefore, is a shallow depth of fieldwhich pulls the subject out from the background.

A focal plane shutter has two parts: a front or first curtain and a rear or second curtain. The front curtain drops to begin the exposure, and the rear curtain follows it to end the exposure. Above this speed, the rear curtain begins closing before the front curtain has exposed the entire sensor, so the shutter becomes more like a scanner, passing a bar of light over the sensor.

If it helps to have a visual, this process is illustrated very well on Fstoppers. HSS gets around this problem by pulsing the flash extremely quickly over the entire duration of the shutter movement. In essence, a flash in HSS mode behaves more like a constant light. HSS is a standard feature of most first-party external flashes, like those from Sony, Canon, and Nikon, but is also included in some high-end studio lights.

The Flashpoint Xplor TTL that Ortiz uses in the video offers significantly more power than a Sony flash, and thus is more flexible when it comes to high-speed sync.

The best bridge cameras for 15 hours ago. The best exercise bikes of April 1 day ago. The best cheap camera flashes for 5 days ago. The best digital cameras for April 1, The best Adobe Lightroom alternatives for April 1, The best instant cameras for April 1, The best Photoshop alternatives for April 1, The best travel cameras for April 1, The best photography tripods for April 1, You know those pictures—people outdoors, looking natural, casual, doing stuff that people do outdoors?

Those perfectly-lit pictures of, say, a family at a picnic, or a dad and daughter fishing off a dock, or mom in a hammock, reading a book? You know, the kinds of pictures that look like easy-does-it snapshots? Portrait and conceptual illustration photographer Kevin Kubota knows those pictures very well; he creates them.

While they're far from snapshots, they're not difficult pictures to make, though they do involve a pretty advanced flash technique that pro shooters everywhere are familiar with. The full Nikon designation of that technique is FP Auto High Speed Sync, but from here on we'll call it high speed sync to speed things up. Using high speed sync mode with your Nikon DSLR D series and above and Nikon Speedlight SB and up allows you to synchronize the flash to shutter speeds all the way up to the highest speed the camera is capable of.

High speed sync works with all exposure modes, and you can use it with a single Speedlight or multiple flash set-ups. So what's high speed sync got to do with those cool-looking outdoor photos we were talking about?

That doesn't mean the camera and flash will sync only at those speeds. We suggest you check your camera's instructions, but those are the basics. On the LCD on the back of your Speedlight you'll see the letters FP ; that's your confirmation that the camera and flash are in high speed sync mode. You might think that the technique is ideal for outdoor sports and action photos, and you'd be right.

You want a high shutter speed to freeze action, but you might also want a bit of fill flash to reveal detail on shadowed faces or shaded backgrounds.

But what about those non-sports shots We'll let Kevin fill in that part of the picture.

High-speed flash sync / auto FP .. vs .. normal flash

Shooting outdoors at those apertures, I almost always have to be shooting high speed sync to get a fast enough shutter speed to prevent overexposure. Kevin selects large apertures to insure shallow depth of field, which in turn creates soft backgrounds, eliminates distractions and focuses the viewer's attention on the subject.

A soft background is a pro touch, and if often takes a high shutter speed and high speed sync to make it happen. Another reason for high speed sync outdoors is to darken the sky for mood, or to darken the background in order to hide location distractions or details.

High speed sync can come into play for indoor images, too. Faced with a brightly lit room, or one in which you're bouncing your flash off a white ceiling, you'll need to boost the shutter speed to prevent overexposure. More likely, though, you'll find yourself in a room with a big picture window or an expanse of glass through which sunlight pours.

In that case, expose for the outside so the window area doesn't blow out, then use high speed sync to effectively balance the outside illumination. In high speed sync mode the flash is not fired in one burst of light; it's emits a series of pulses, an incredibly rapid series that illuminates the scene as the camera's focal plane shutter moves across the sensor.

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This strobing action takes an enormous amount of flash power, and the flash essentially divides up the amount of light into segments as the shutter travels. The faster the shutter speed, the less flash power is available.

Often the reduction in power does not noticeably affect the image, but when it does, photographers often compensate by either moving closer to their subjects or using more than one Speedlight. Professional photographers recognize situations and can predict results because they've been there before. Before you call on high speed sync for your outdoor portraits or action moments, get to know what you can expect from the technique.

Take your camera and flash to the backyard on a sunny day and photograph the kids in the pool, the dog, birds at the feeder, a volunteer friend, a garden gnome in bright sunlight. See how it balances natural light and fills in shadows. It's also a good idea to practice with your flash on and off the camera, either hand-held or placed on a stand. You'll know the technique is working when you don't even notice it in the photograph.HSS flash is triggered repeatedly and very rapidly, so that it mimics being "on" like continuous light like sunlight or a desk lamp is on continuously.

As seen by the shutter, HSS is continuous lightmeaning, the flash is on when shutter opens, and still on when shutter closes Continuous light is the ambient light present, always there, again like for example sunlight or incandescent light. And the shutter sees the longer HSS flash as continuous light too, so it has some of the same continuous properties: Exposure is reduced by fast shutter speeds, but wider aperture can compensate equally, called Equivalent Exposures then. Like sunlight, HSS simply works at any shutter speed.

But like sunlight, a very fast shutter speed of course reduces the light, which then requires a very wide aperture in compensation Not true of speedlight mode, with a very short flash exposure that is independent of shutter speed. It is merely called High Speed Sync, since continuous light has no sync requirements.

HSS no longer works same as "flash", and is no longer a speedlight - continuous light has no motion stopping capability at all HSS does still have the shutter speed, but the speedlight is typically faster than any possible shutter speed. The continuous HSS flash mode is implemented by pulsing it tens of thousands of times per second, appearing to be continuous for the shutter operation durationwith flash duration from slightly before the shutter opens until slightly after it closes.

It may appear as a "flash" to the human eye, but as seen by the shutter, this is exactly like any continuous light. Maximum Flash Sync Speed which HSS flash mode is specifically designed to NOT have any sync requirement is defined as the time for a focal plane shutter to be fully open, to pass the flash power pulse.

It may still appear as a quick flash to the human eye, but HSS duration is in fact greatly longer than a speedlight power pulse. So of course, HSS also has the properties of Continuous Light it is continuous light for the shutter operation durationinstead of the properties of speedlight flash a more instantaneous burst, the shutter simply has to be open, called "sync".

HSS exposure is affected by shutter speed, same as sunlight is affected. HSS "flash" has no motion stopping ability at all same as sunlight, continuous light does not stop motionso then the shutter speed is all that will stop motion.

But of course, a fast shutter seriously reduces continuous light exposure. However, speedlight mode can be much faster than the shutter, with full power as well. So we have to have a real need for HSS.

The wide aperture compensates for the fast shutter speed losses just like in sunlight. Flash models vary in power capability, but if HSS distance is approaching ten feet, start being concerned about sufficient flash power. HSS would be a disadvantage indoors due to speed and range and power being much better in speedlight mode.

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Fill flash is important to pictures of people in bright sun, because it reduces the dark shadows on the face, and also adds catch lights in the eyes. Typically the fill flash level in bright sun is So, while HSS can use any high shutter speed, a fast shutter speed duration will tremendously diminish the continuous light captured. However, since it is continuous, Equivalent Exposures apply again, which now applies to HSS flash too, same as any continuous light, meaning a wide aperture can compensate for the light losses of a fast shutter speed, for both HSS flash or for ambient light, since both are continuous.

We hear some people shocked to discover that HSS exposure drops by half with each stop of faster shutter speed. They simply don't understand that HSS is continuous light continuous for the full duration of the shutter traveland that is how all continuous light works. We then simply compensate continuous light by opening the aperture, called Equivalent Exposures, basic stuff. Speedlight mode is the exception, Equivalent Exposures do not apply to it because regular flash mode exposure is not affected by shutter speedbut HSS will go better if you think of Equivalent Exposures.

Indoors, in dimmer light where we need flash, we can use wide aperture anyway, so HSS flash would be pointless and counterproductive and inappropriate in typical indoor scenes. The regular speedlight mode will run circles around HSS, power, range, speed. This does not matter indoors in dim light, and the speedlight can be much faster than any shutter.

Since fill flash is reduced level, then as such, -2 EV fill doubles the range of brighter flash seeking 0 EV as main light.Before we can talk about high-speed synchronization syncwe need to discuss what flash sync is.

Flash sync is the computer-controlled feature in which the flash and the shutter release are synchronized such that the flash light output illuminates the subject for the specific moments that the shutter exposes the image sensor. Those settings will give you too much depth of field, way too much actually.

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Nearly everything in sight will be in focus. This is easily achievable by setting the flash to High Sync Speed. So in sports photography High Shutter Sync is ideal, and in some wildlife situations as well. With a high-speed sync flash-capable camera and dedicated flash unit, all you do is set the camera to that setting. Basically, at high shutter speeds, the rear curtain starts to close before the front curtain fully opens. This way only a sliver of exposure moves across the image sensor.

It is within this moving sliver of exposure that the flash fires, and voila! A high-speed shutter speed is synchronized to the flash. The flash does fire longer than in standard flash mode.

hss flash

In standard flash mode, the flash duration is much shorter than the time it takes for the shutter to move across the image sensor, and the partially opened shutter will cover part of the frame. This would leave large sections of black in your image. The underexposed black in the image is not good, to say the least. The shutter on your DSLR consists of two curtains; the front and rear that open and then close in the time designated by the shutter speed i. However, many 35mm and DSLRs give you the option to have the flash fire just before the rear curtain or second-curtain begins to move.

You can achieve arresting, creative motion-blur and streaming light effects by deftly manipulating the front and rear curtain sync, especially with longer shutter speeds 1 second or more. The high-speed sync gives you more artistic control over your photos, particularly in aperture-priority mode. Attila Kun Attila is the founder and editor-in-chief of Exposure Guide. He is an avid photographer, graphic designer, bedroom DJ and devoted Mac addict.

Focusing Modes.

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Lens Basics.The scene: Outdoors with full sunlight. The gear: Your camera, lens, and flash. Those dust spots you keep meaning to clean are also perfectly visible. A typical portrait shot with off-camera flash. The resulting aperture means that everything is pretty much in focus, leaving the background looking cluttered.

hss flash

This shot is for example only, you should generally make a point of choosing clutter-free backgrounds. Sync Speed is the fastest shutter speed where the camera exposes the whole frame at once.

When you fire any shot below this speed, the first shutter curtain opens fully, revealing the entire sensor to light. At the end of the exposure time, the second shutter curtain moves across the frame to finish the capture. Both curtains then reset together this means you get no light leaking in. When you go above the sync speed, the second curtain starts to move before the first one has completed its journey.

As your shutter speed gets shorter and shorter, the gap between these curtains narrows to a tiny slit.

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Despite this, all parts of the sensor receive light, and a full exposure is made. You see, when a flash is fired usually when the first curtain is opened all the light from it comes out in a very short space of time in order of milliseconds.

The means the shutter curtain blocks part of the flash and prevents it from reaching the sensor. Any ambient light will expose normally, but the flash gets hidden in part of the frame. Normally when you use flash outside in daylight, you end up having everything in focus. Even the hills in the background are in clear focus. A behind the scenes shot — two flashes on full power. Most speedlights at full power, bare bulb, in close, can give you just enough power to look natural at these settings.

Bare flash is not flattering, though it can add character.

Beginners Guide to High Speed Sync Flash Photography

If you want softer, more flattering, light, you need more power. Most modifiers that give soft light will take two stops of power compared to the bare flash.

Alternatively, you could use a bracket that takes multiple speedlights. Either option allows you to get soft, flattering, light while outdoors. A higher power option is the Godox AD This is coupled with the Godox cm Octa for softer light. Fortunately, there is a solution. Instead of firing the flash at the start of the shot, HSS pulses the flash throughout the whole exposure, trying to simulate the effects of a continuous light. It works well, but it comes at the expense of power, and heat.

HSS works the flash really hard. After a few shots, the flash may even shut down for cooling. All major brands allow it, though Fuji only just introduced it. Read my review of the Cactus V6II trigger here.

hss flash

You get the complete control of the light using flash, but with the wide aperture you usually associate with natural light photographs.There have been a number of questions about high-speed flash sync HSSand how it affects the output from your flash. There were also some questions asked about high-speed flash sync with this recent post where we tried to reverse-engineer a photo.

I decided to do a series of comparison photos, so we can actually see what happens before, at and beyond maximum flash sync speed. And we can also see what happens with high-speed flash sync. To do this, I set up very simple portrait lighting using a single speedlight and a large umbrella. A simple white paper-roll backdrop, and our model, Rachel. Here is the setup in my dining room ….

Of course, the reason for it only being one speedlight is that we can now observe its behavior.

HSS Flash Mode - What is it?

For all the images in this article, the speedlight was set to give full output in manual mode. TTL flash is an automatic metering mode, and there will be variations in output if we change our composition. Manual flash is consistent and predictable. I worked at full output so that we can more clearly see some of the effect of going to high-speed flash sync. PocketWizard Plus II units, to be exact. So we can now see what will happen then. For the final sequences where we go to high-speed sync HSSI used an on-camera speedlight as a Master, to fire the Slaved speedlight mounted with the umbrella.

The focal plane shutter found in D-SLRs, consist of two curtains that open and close. When the shutter is tripped, the first curtain opens, revealing the sensor or frame to the light, and then the second curtain closes.

The time interval between the first curtain opening, and the second curtain closing, is the shutter speed. Looking at the top part of the diagram, we can see the timing of the flash pulse. With normal flash sync shown here as Low Speed flash syncthe flash is a near-instantaneous burst of light.

There will be some shutter speed which will be the highest shutter speed at which the first curtain has just stopped moving, and the 2nd curtain has not moved yet.

More about maximum flash sync speed here. It is one of the essential things we need to know about, and understand, when we deal with flash photography. The flash is now effectively continuous light over a very short duration.

Now, when we go over maximum flash sync speed, the flash is released as that short period of continuous light, and we can take our shutter speed much higher than maximum flash sync speed. This change from a high-energy near-instantaneous burst of light normal flashto the short period of continuous light high-speed flash syncdoes imply a loss of effective power.

In other words, much of the output from the flash in high-speed flash sync mode will be lost.

How to Make Beautiful Portraits Using Flash and High-Speed Sync

Before we can truly grasp on-camera flash and off-camera flash, and really, any kind of photography, we have to be aware of the direction and quality of light. We need to observe the light that we have, and then decide how best to use it, or enhance it.

This is how studio-type shoots are usually set up. Normal flash sync. In other words, no high-speed flash sync. Here is the first sequence, using the Nikon D3. The next sequence is with the Canon 5D. Below that, and if there is not much ambient light, the choice of shutter speed has NO effect on the flash.

This is due to propagation delay. More about this in a short while. Here is the same sequence for the Canon 5D. As you could see there with the sequence of images for the Nikon D3 and the Canon 5D — even though you might be working at maximum flash sync speed — you might still get the edge of a shutter curtain.

Hss flash